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I’m not an expert orchid grower by any stretch of the imagination, but I can certainly keep them alive. While the art of growing orchids is way more complex, as complex as the varieties, I’d like to share the basic guidelines that I follow that keeps my orchids alive. If you stick by these, your orchid should be able to grow for at least a few years, until you need to transplant them. That’s another topic.

Most of the orchids that I grow are phalaenopsis (moth orchids). These orchids have broad thick leaves and are commonly purchased in most grocery stores and hardware stores. These guidelines may still apply to other orchids, but I can only vouch for how they’ve helped me grow moth orchids.

Guideline #1: Keep in direct but limited sunlight.

Ideally you will sit your orchid in a window that gets direct sunlight in the winter and partial direct sunlight in the summer. A south facing window that is partially shaded by trees in the summer is perfect. East or west facing windows with some direct sun are good as well. “Phalae’s” don’t want to be in constant sunlight, but a couple of hours of direct sun should be perfect. In nature, these orchids grow under trees, sometimes in the nook of a tree limb. So think about the limited but sometimes direct light that they would get in those circumstances and that’s what you’re trying to match.

Guideline #2: Do not rotate your orchid. Minimize location changes.

Some people don’t rotate plants anyway, so it’s not a big deal. However, if you follow my watering method, you may unintentionally rotate the plant. Phalaenopsis are actually pretty tough plants, but to bloom they like consistency over a long period of time. When you move the orchid, especially rotating it, you shock it into finding the new sunlight. Some plants deal with rotations well, but I find that it confuses the orchid and again doesn’t mimic it’s natural habitat.

Guideline #3: Soak your orchid when watering it. Water when it’s dry.

I’ve heard the “water your orchid with ice cubes” trick and maybe this works for people. I found that it makes me have to water more frequently and I’m not a good daily waterer. I water my orchids about once a week, which can go up to a week and a half in humid months. Most orchids that you get in the store come in sphagnum moss. By touching this moss, you can tell when to water. When it feels wet to the touch, the plant does not need to be watered. When the moss has just become dry and crunchy to the touch, it’s time to water. Catch it right as it starts to get crunchy, which usually happens about once a week for me.

Remembering which way the orchid is facing, pick it up and take it over to your kitchen sink. Soak it. You can run water through it until it’s soaked, or you can submerge it in water and pull it out. I usually have a system where water it until its soaked, turn the water off, and go get another plant. By the time I’ve come back, the excess water has stopped flowing. I tilt it to drain the pan, and put it back in place.

I generally try to water the orchid until it is just soaked. There are still microbes and nutrients in the moss, so you don’t want to wash them out every time. Eventually you’ll want to add some additional nutrients, but don’t fret about that just yet.

And seriously, those are the basics. That’s it!

You’ll know that you’re doing it right when you see any signs of new growth: new leaves come out the top and center, new roots will form and eventually you should get a new flower stem. The roots and flower stems come out of similar places under the leaves, but you’ll quickly see the difference. Flower stems start to grow smooth and straight up.

Other things that you may notice:

• Bottom leaves turning brown and dying. This is normal and can also be a sign of growth when accompanied with new leaves forming out of the top.
• Plant is drying out quicker than one week. You may not be watering it enough, or the air humidity may be really low.
• Top leaves show long lengthwise lines and seem thin. This is an orchid that is not getting enough water. If it continues, the leaves will eventually get floppy. You want firm green leaves that are stretched out and hold their own weight.
• Light discolorations of leaves, almost like it’s getting burned by the light. Yes, it’s getting burned by the light. It could be in too much sun and not getting enough water.
• You’ve got flower stems! Eventually (usually mid-winter in the mid-atlantic) you’ll see stems, flower pods and flowers. These will grow towards the sun. You’ll have to train them to grow away from the sun so that the flowers don’t grow into your window. Do not let the plants dry out too much while they’re flowering.

With any luck, you’ll have an orchid that blooms, and continues to live as a great houseplant. After a few years, you’ll probably need to transplant it, even just to put it back in the same pot. That’s for another tutorial.

Hope this helps!